Monthly Archive: January, 2013

Pallikere & the Bekal Fort

Despite leading us to the middle of a tiny-ass town, Lady Luck decided to throw us a party… or, rather, lead us to one. In Kochin, we decided we needed a stop somewhere… Continue reading

Artsy Kochi

Kochi-Muziris Biennale, an international exhibition of contemporary art, is the first ever held in India. We didn’t bother paying for the tickets but managed to get into a few exhibits for free… Some… Continue reading


I got to admit, I didn’t think I would like Kochin very much. All I really knew about it was that it was touristy, there was a ‘fort,’ and the beach was filthy.… Continue reading


The area around Munnar is every bit as beautiful as everyone says it is. The rocky, green hills slope down into the hazy off-white horizon, and high above, the sky is a soft… Continue reading

Death ride

That was the most terrifying bus ride I’ve ever had to sit through, and I thought I’d lived through a lot of death-defying rides. Every overnight bus we’ve ever ridden–from Peru to Bolivia… Continue reading


Allapuzha. The backwaters of Kerala? Hands down one of the most beautiful places in South India. I was amazed to see how many houseboats were moored in the main port, and then I… Continue reading

cultural sensitivity in varkala?

I balked at posting this diatribe, but in the end, it needs to be said out loud. I love beach-going and all the activities it entails, but its a bit of a sticky… Continue reading

Varkala: Indian irie

Hellooooo, Paradise! We’ve been here four days, now, and I’m already thinking how to best convince Xik to stay another day. The black sand beach close to our homestay is a thin strip… Continue reading

Kanyakumari and the edge of the world

With a vague sense of accomplishment, we finally reached the windy, southernmost (never mind the Andamans) point of India: Kanyakumari… or Cape Comorin. The beach was crammed with Indians just as excited as… Continue reading


From Pondi we took a sleeper bus to Madurai, intending to spend only a few hours there before going on to Kanyakumari. Outside the train station at 5 am! Xiker decided to go… Continue reading

Pondy, Puducherry, whatevs

Anyone who tells you that ‘Pondy’ is calm and peaceful hasn’t been to the real Pondicherry. The Pondy everyone raves about is a few blocks wide and a few blocks long, and yeah,… Continue reading

Itchy Trichy

After almost 3 weeks of traveling in India, our weak immune system finally succumbed to the rigors of backpacking and we fell ill. Not of travelers diarrhea, not yet, but yeah, we had… Continue reading

Snooty Ooty

With some time to kill while the Canon S100 was supposed to be repaired, we decided to visit ‘Snooty Ooty,’ a hill town in the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu. The 5-hour drive… Continue reading


Just walking around the center of town is enough to attest to the fact that Mysore is an important stop on the Silk Route. Shops selling silk are everywhere, easily identified by the… Continue reading

Old Hampi

Anton, a motorcycle connoisseur, was itching to hop back onto his rented Royal Enfield (he actually drove the bike, in one day, from Goa to Hampi) so I was able to convince Xiker… Continue reading

Hamming it up in Hampi

After the hustle and bustle of Mumbai and the dusty haze of Aurangabad, I immediately fell in love with Hampi. The reddish-orange rocks are offset by the emerald green banana plantation leaves, bright… Continue reading

The wheels of the bus go round and round

As I type, we have been on the road for 12 hours now, Hampi being our final destination. First a sleeper bus from Aurangabad to Solapur, then a public bus for the last… Continue reading


The area of Ellora has a total of 34 caves, the oldest of which are Buddhist and built between AD 600-800; the Hindu caves were built between AD 600-900; and the Jain AD… Continue reading

The Caves of Ajanta

At Ajanta (and Ellora,) we shared history with about half of India (or so it felt like), most of them probably on vacation, coming from nearby cities or states. It was a first… Continue reading