Category Archive: india

$tatistic$ of traveling in India

The average costs for 2 cookie lovers on a day to day/month to month basis. We’re not frugal by any means (our ever-increasing waist sizes can attest to this) but we’re not luxury… Continue reading

Border crossing: India into Nepal

EDIT 4/2014: to clarify, this post does not contain practical information specifically about the border, sorry! That said, here are 2 tips so you don’t have to read through the whole thing! 1.… Continue reading

Incredible India

Xiker posted this succinct summary of our trip on his facebook, a few days ago: 86 days, 33 cities + places around, 39 cheap rooms, 15 nights on the road/rails, 4 motorcycles, infinite… Continue reading

Street art: Varanasi

As most people know, spirituality isn’t easily contained. In such a crowded city as Varanasi, temples are so overrun that there isn’t room for anything more than a puja, and so beliefs can’t… Continue reading

Voracious Varanasi

Varanasi is possibly the most interesting Indian city I’ve seen yet, but the only really interesting part about the city is the Ganga and the ghats lining it. Otherwise, it is Delhi and… Continue reading

Khajuraho: faces

I was (somewhat) prepared for the persistent touts, the overfriendly fellas who just wanted to ‘help’ and the subsequent dogging, but in the end, despite a few hair-pulling incidents, the people of Madhya… Continue reading

Good news for Ama

Xiker got a shave! Bye bye, beard, hello, itchy kisses. (Happy, Patxi?)

Khajuraho: carnival

The carnival opened on Sunday morning and it was pure chaotic joy, despite the suffocating clouds of dust in the air. Parents gripped overexcited toddlers by the hand while older children were given… Continue reading

Khajuraho: temples

It felt as if we were in hot and humid Hampi once again, especially with the thick layer of airborne dust, except the scenery was nowhere near as gorgeous. The sandstone colors are… Continue reading

Ruminations of a long, long train ride

With 83 days of traveling under our belt, and 90 days on Xiker’s visa, we are quickly running out of time. We are currently enroute to Varanasi, on a train that is now… Continue reading

fun at the taj

You had to know that wasn’t the last we’ve seen of the Taj Mahal on this here blog! We saw a lot of funny poses, but there were a few that seemed to… Continue reading

Aaaaagra

We didn’t do much besides fawn over the Taj Mahal. The fort is pretty kewl, though. these old ladies made my day even though i didn’t understand a word they were saying… their… Continue reading

Fatehpur (minus the Sikri)

I thought Agra was pretty bad with flies, touts and rubbish, but turns out nearby Fatehpur is even worse. Locals crowd up against you trying to sell you postcards, brochures, necklaces or anklets,… Continue reading

Taj Mahal

The alarm went off at 530 am, but after a few snooze buttons and cups of chai, we got to the west gate booth at 6. No less than 10 people in front… Continue reading

New Delhi

Delhi. Only stayed two days, so there isn’t much I can say about it… Big and chaotic, dirty yet ebullient, far from fragrant, and green (they try, at least). Impressive metro system, efficient… Continue reading

Snowboarding in Gulmarg

Since Xiker worships any embodiment of a snow god and would sacrifice anything–including yours truly–on the altar of snow, all for the adrenaline-inducing sport of snowboarding… it was only fitting that we go… Continue reading

Srinagar

Mostly famous for the mountain scenery and the houseboats of placid Dal Lake, Srinagar is where vacationers head to when they want to escape the heat of summer. But despite visiting Srinagar during… Continue reading

Little Tibet and the 14th Dalai Lama

I’ll be honest. Before reaching Mcleod Ganj–current home base of the exiled Dalai Lama–I knew next to nothing of Tibet, her people and her struggles, only that I wanted to visit someday. After… Continue reading

Amritsar

Amritsar, home to the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion: Harmandir Sahib, or the Golden Temple. With 750 kg of gold, the temple deserves its glittery title… Now, I could bore you with… Continue reading

Traipsing across North India

Being a tourist in North India ain’t easy. These Indians have seen far and above more than their share of us foreigners, so I really don’t blame ’em for their attitude towards us,… Continue reading

Jaisalmer

Known as the Golden City, the ancient desert town of Jaisalmer is near the edge of the Thar desert, deep into west India. The moniker Golden City is well deserved, as the fort… Continue reading

Jodhpur

The train was supposed to arrive sometime early afternoon, but because it was hours late, we didn’t get into Jodhpur until 10 pm. Normally, I’d be ok with that, but we had a… Continue reading

Jaipur

As the capital city of Rajasthan, we agreed the city merited a visit. I must admit I was mildly disappointed by its nickname, Pink City. Even the central train station, Jaipur Junction, was… Continue reading

Pushy Pushkar

Where Brahma once dropped a lotus blossom, a lake appeared, and the sacred water is now surrounded by hundreds of temples and no less than 52 bathing ghats. Pushkar is a pilgrimage town… Continue reading

Chitty chitty bang bang Chittorgarh

Looming over the town of Chittor, 180 meters up atop a plateau, is one of India’s largest forts, with history reaching all the way back to the 7th century. The Chattari Rajputs (a… Continue reading

Udaipur

Finally, I thought to myself, Rajasthan, the land of kings. Udaipur did not disappoint. We disembarked the sleeper bus at 5:30 am into a cold morning, and quickly ordered steaming glasses of chai… Continue reading

Mumbai, again

A full circle, in xx days. this time, we didn’t go anywhere near the Colaba district, nor did we attempt the Dharavi slums again… but I saw another side of life in Mumbai,… Continue reading

Goan motorcycle diaries: day 2

Rented an Avenger for 350 a day. Cushy passenger seat with back support. Left our backpacks behind and took only necessities. (Swimsuit and camera!) We insisted on helmets for both of us, lest… Continue reading

Arambol

Our Russian buddy from Hampi, Anton, was the one who recommended that we come up here for a night or two; he’d made Arambol his home base while he hung out in Goa… Continue reading

Goan motorcycle diaries: Day 3

Today was a day of meandering, as we wanted to spend as many hours on the Avenger as possible. North and south, west and east, we just rode with the wind. (And boy,… Continue reading