Trundling through the Western Terai

The roads in Nepal are bumpy and cratered at the best of times, so choosing destinations that require traveling long distances are not to be taken lightly. On our way to the Annapurnas,… Continue reading

Bhameshvar

With an staggering fee of 1,000nrs per person for admission into the Pashupatinath Temple and the Bhameshvar cremation ghats, the venture doesn’t seem quite worth it. Supposedly the temple dates a few thousand… Continue reading

Lalitpur (and/or) Patan

On a map, it seems to be a suburb of Kathmandu, but Patan–officially recognized as Lalitpur– is actually one of the oldest cities in Nepal, with roots dating back to the third century… Continue reading

CURRENT WHEREABOUTS!

Sekretua airean da! Euskal Herrian gaude dagoeneko! TRANSLATION: By now the secret is out: we are back in Euskal Herria! Back in April, right after we’d finished the Annapurna Circuit, we sat down… Continue reading

Walking: the great equalizer?

Another trekker’s declaration I read in a book about the Annapurnas lodged into my head and I’d turn it over, again and again, in my head as I toiled up a slope. “No… Continue reading

Part 4: Helambu

The Helambu trek is a popular alternative to the Langtang trek, going through different types of terrain over 6 to 7 days. The highest point of the trek is 3,640m at Tharepati, but… Continue reading

Part 3: Gosainkund

The Gosainkund trail goes up to a cluster of sacred lakes up around 4,300m, and every August thousands of people on pilgrimage–Buddhists and Hindus alike–make the hike to bathe themselves in the holy… Continue reading

Part 2: Langtang Valley

The Langtang trail is an easy teahouse trek, an in-and-out one (which means you go and come back the same way) and only takes 7 to 9 days. The altitude gain is not… Continue reading

Part 1: Tamang Heritage trail

The Tamang Heritage trail is a 3-5 day trek outside Langtang National Park and is new on the list of short treks…We only did 3 days, since our outdated map didn’t outline the… Continue reading

Nepal Motorcycle Diaries: Bandipur and Gorkha

With some days to kill before starting our Langtang trek, we reserved a motorcycle and scoured the map for a worthy destination. Settled on Bandipur, a hill town three hours away, and set… Continue reading

We be off Langtang-ing

While all of y’all back home in the USA and Europe are enjoying spring (or the last vestiges of winter), Xiker and I are off to the Langtang Valley for the next few… Continue reading

Hazy Pokhara

We did nothing in Pokhara, in terms of ‘traveling’. It was as if our moods mirrored the hazy weather that enveloped Pokhara in a thick, yellowish cloud for the entire time we were… Continue reading

Part 2: Prepping for the Annapurna Circuit

For questions related to finances, what to pack and other possibly important queries, see PART 1. This post covers additional information that may or may not be important, depending on yer opine. Helpful… Continue reading

Nepali New Year

Happy Nepali New Year, y’all! It’s the second day of the year 2070 BS (Vikram Samvat, also spelled Bikram). For Nepalis the new year falls sometime in mid-April, as according to the lunar… Continue reading

Kathmandu

Before getting into Nepal, Xiker and I hadn’t really talked about what we’d do there. I hadn’t even had a chance to look into the Lonely Planet Nepal book we’d been carting all… Continue reading

$tatistic$ of traveling in India

The average costs for 2 cookie lovers on a day to day/month to month basis. We’re not frugal by any means (our ever-increasing waist sizes can attest to this) but we’re not luxury… Continue reading

Border crossing: India into Nepal

EDIT 4/2014: to clarify, this post does not contain practical information specifically about the border, sorry! That said, here are 2 tips so you don’t have to read through the whole thing! 1.… Continue reading

Incredible India

Xiker posted this succinct summary of our trip on his facebook, a few days ago: 86 days, 33 cities + places around, 39 cheap rooms, 15 nights on the road/rails, 4 motorcycles, infinite… Continue reading

Street art: Varanasi

As most people know, spirituality isn’t easily contained. In such a crowded city as Varanasi, temples are so overrun that there isn’t room for anything more than a puja, and so beliefs can’t… Continue reading

Voracious Varanasi

Varanasi is possibly the most interesting Indian city I’ve seen yet, but the only really interesting part about the city is the Ganga and the ghats lining it. Otherwise, it is Delhi and… Continue reading

Blogging and internet connections

Holla from Kathmandu, Nepal! It was a 40-hour ordeal which shall be chronicled, but first, I gotta catch up! In Varanasi, speedy internet connections were a rarity in my section of town–so it… Continue reading

Khajuraho: faces

I was (somewhat) prepared for the persistent touts, the overfriendly fellas who just wanted to ‘help’ and the subsequent dogging, but in the end, despite a few hair-pulling incidents, the people of Madhya… Continue reading

Good news for Ama

Xiker got a shave! Bye bye, beard, hello, itchy kisses. (Happy, Patxi?)

Khajuraho: carnival

The carnival opened on Sunday morning and it was pure chaotic joy, despite the suffocating clouds of dust in the air. Parents gripped overexcited toddlers by the hand while older children were given… Continue reading

Khajuraho: temples

It felt as if we were in hot and humid Hampi once again, especially with the thick layer of airborne dust, except the scenery was nowhere near as gorgeous. The sandstone colors are… Continue reading

Ruminations of a long, long train ride

With 83 days of traveling under our belt, and 90 days on Xiker’s visa, we are quickly running out of time. We are currently enroute to Varanasi, on a train that is now… Continue reading

fun at the taj

You had to know that wasn’t the last we’ve seen of the Taj Mahal on this here blog! We saw a lot of funny poses, but there were a few that seemed to… Continue reading