Aaaaagra

We didn’t do much besides fawn over the Taj Mahal. The fort is pretty kewl, though. these old ladies made my day even though i didn’t understand a word they were saying… their… Continue reading

Fatehpur (minus the Sikri)

I thought Agra was pretty bad with flies, touts and rubbish, but turns out nearby Fatehpur is even worse. Locals crowd up against you trying to sell you postcards, brochures, necklaces or anklets,… Continue reading

Taj Mahal

The alarm went off at 530 am, but after a few snooze buttons and cups of chai, we got to the west gate booth at 6. No less than 10 people in front… Continue reading

New Delhi

Delhi. Only stayed two days, so there isn’t much I can say about it… Big and chaotic, dirty yet ebullient, far from fragrant, and green (they try, at least). Impressive metro system, efficient… Continue reading

Snowboarding in Gulmarg

Since Xiker worships any embodiment of a snow god and would sacrifice anything–including yours truly–on the altar of snow, all for the adrenaline-inducing sport of snowboarding… it was only fitting that we go… Continue reading

Srinagar

Mostly famous for the mountain scenery and the houseboats of placid Dal Lake, Srinagar is where vacationers head to when they want to escape the heat of summer. But despite visiting Srinagar during… Continue reading

Wise words of the Dalai Lama

We have bigger houses but smaller families: We have more degrees but less sense; more knowledge but less judgements; more experts but more problems; more medicines, but less healthiness. We’ve been all the… Continue reading

Little Tibet and the 14th Dalai Lama

I’ll be honest. Before reaching Mcleod Ganj–current home base of the exiled Dalai Lama–I knew next to nothing of Tibet, her people and her struggles, only that I wanted to visit someday. After… Continue reading

Amritsar

Amritsar, home to the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion: Harmandir Sahib, or the Golden Temple. With 750 kg of gold, the temple deserves its glittery title… Now, I could bore you with… Continue reading

Traipsing across North India

Being a tourist in North India ain’t easy. These Indians have seen far and above more than their share of us foreigners, so I really don’t blame ’em for their attitude towards us,… Continue reading

Jaisalmer

Known as the Golden City, the ancient desert town of Jaisalmer is near the edge of the Thar desert, deep into west India. The moniker Golden City is well deserved, as the fort… Continue reading

Jodhpur

The train was supposed to arrive sometime early afternoon, but because it was hours late, we didn’t get into Jodhpur until 10 pm. Normally, I’d be ok with that, but we had a… Continue reading

Jaipur

As the capital city of Rajasthan, we agreed the city merited a visit. I must admit I was mildly disappointed by its nickname, Pink City. Even the central train station, Jaipur Junction, was… Continue reading

Pushy Pushkar

Where Brahma once dropped a lotus blossom, a lake appeared, and the sacred water is now surrounded by hundreds of temples and no less than 52 bathing ghats. Pushkar is a pilgrimage town… Continue reading

Chitty chitty bang bang Chittorgarh

Looming over the town of Chittor, 180 meters up atop a plateau, is one of India’s largest forts, with history reaching all the way back to the 7th century. The Chattari Rajputs (a… Continue reading

Udaipur

Finally, I thought to myself, Rajasthan, the land of kings. Udaipur did not disappoint. We disembarked the sleeper bus at 5:30 am into a cold morning, and quickly ordered steaming glasses of chai… Continue reading

Mumbai, again

A full circle, in xx days. this time, we didn’t go anywhere near the Colaba district, nor did we attempt the Dharavi slums again… but I saw another side of life in Mumbai,… Continue reading

Goan motorcycle diaries: day 2

Rented an Avenger for 350 a day. Cushy passenger seat with back support. Left our backpacks behind and took only necessities. (Swimsuit and camera!) We insisted on helmets for both of us, lest… Continue reading

Arambol

Our Russian buddy from Hampi, Anton, was the one who recommended that we come up here for a night or two; he’d made Arambol his home base while he hung out in Goa… Continue reading

Goan motorcycle diaries: Day 3

Today was a day of meandering, as we wanted to spend as many hours on the Avenger as possible. North and south, west and east, we just rode with the wind. (And boy,… Continue reading

Goan Motorcycle diaries: Day 1

Tackled the coast of South Goa today. North and Central will be conquered in the forseeable future. Xiker chose a Yamaha FZ for today. Looked cool, sounded badass, and went FAST! But the… Continue reading

Palolem

The slice of heaven I’ve been looking for, ever since I left Maui! The beach of Palolem is jam-packed with beachfront bungalows, restaurants and tourists. The streets nearby are dedicated to guesthouses, internet… Continue reading

Gokarna

To sum up the destination of Gokarna: one big hippie beach resort. (I saw more dreadlocks on different heads in one day than I have my whole life… even the hippie kids had… Continue reading

Pallikere & the Bekal Fort

Despite leading us to the middle of a tiny-ass town, Lady Luck decided to throw us a party… or, rather, lead us to one. In Kochin, we decided we needed a stop somewhere… Continue reading

Artsy Kochi

Kochi-Muziris Biennale, an international exhibition of contemporary art, is the first ever held in India. We didn’t bother paying for the tickets but managed to get into a few exhibits for free… Some… Continue reading

Kochi

I got to admit, I didn’t think I would like Kochin very much. All I really knew about it was that it was touristy, there was a ‘fort,’ and the beach was filthy.… Continue reading

Munnar

The area around Munnar is every bit as beautiful as everyone says it is. The rocky, green hills slope down into the hazy off-white horizon, and high above, the sky is a soft… Continue reading

Death ride

That was the most terrifying bus ride I’ve ever had to sit through, and I thought I’d lived through a lot of death-defying rides. Every overnight bus we’ve ever ridden–from Peru to Bolivia… Continue reading

Alleppey

Allapuzha. The backwaters of Kerala? Hands down one of the most beautiful places in South India. I was amazed to see how many houseboats were moored in the main port, and then I… Continue reading

cultural sensitivity in varkala?

I balked at posting this diatribe, but in the end, it needs to be said out loud. I love beach-going and all the activities it entails, but its a bit of a sticky… Continue reading